Japanese fashion icon Yohji Yamamoto and Belgian house Dries Van Noten unveiled their Spring 2026 menswear collections Thursday at Paris Fashion Week, marking a pivotal moment as the industry watches new creative leadership take the helm at one of fashion's most revered independent brands.
The shows cap a week that has seen luxury menswear push toward relaxed tailoring and understated elegance, with today's presentations serving as a bridge between fashion's avant-garde traditions and its commercial future.
Dries Van Noten's afternoon presentation marked Julian Klausner's debut as the brand's new menswear creative force, following founder Dries Van Noten's retirement announcement in March1. The collection, designed by the studio in Antwerp, featured "boldly layered colors, fabrics, prints, and embroidery" in what fashion observers called "a masterclass in sophistication and opulence"1.
The transition comes as the Puig-owned brand seeks to maintain Van Noten's signature aesthetic while establishing new creative direction. Fashion Network noted the collection represented "a stellar continuation of Van Noten's work but with a new perspective"1.
American brand Amiri also presented during the week, contributing to what Coveteur described as anticipation around "Spring 2026 Menswear shows" now "fully underway" in Paris2.
Yamamoto's evening show reinforced his position as fashion's master of deconstructed tailoring. The 80-year-old designer, known for collaborations with filmmakers like Wim Wenders and soccer legend Zinedine Zidane, continues to challenge conventional menswear through his signature black palette and architectural silhouettes12.
Previous Yamamoto shows have featured celebrity guests and unconventional casting, including Wenders walking the runway in designs that blur gender boundaries1.
The presentations unfold against broader shifts in luxury menswear, with brands emphasizing "carefree, effortless elegance" and "understated, comfortable textures" for Spring 20261. Fashion Network identified ten key trends emerging from recent shows, including reinterpreted pinstripe suits and relaxed tailoring approaches1.
Paris Men's Fashion Week, running through Sunday, features 40 runway shows and 30 presentations2. The week concludes with anticipated collections from Rick Owens, Craig Green, and Jacquemus2.
Van Noten's transition represents one of fashion's most watched creative handovers, as the industry grapples with maintaining founding designers' legacies while attracting new audiences.
